Ageing with finesse – what makes older vintages so special?

South Africa’s foodie culture is thriving and aged wines are coming along for the ride. In recent years, we have seen a phenomenal boost in the quality of South Africa’s restaurant scene. The calibre of food is climbing, with award-winning chefs and a prolific variety of cuisines on offer. Experimentation in local kitchens is in step with international standards. But what is food without wine? Our country’s culinary resurgence has created an increased demand for more interesting and distinguished wines.

Consumers are no longer new to wine culture, and their developed palates are ready for the magic of older vintages. Our country’s wealth is distributed more fairly across the population and young people are using their disposable income to learn about and enjoy wine. Restaurants are filling up our glasses to match more discerning tastes, and older vintages are an important part of this natural progression.

 

But what is it that makes for a fine vintage wine? It’s all about balance. If a wine is out of sync in its youth, it won’t age well. In our warm climate, acidity is a key component to keep whites and reds fresh. But it would be a misconception to think only the wines produced in years of high acidity have the right disposition to age. Acid is not the only consideration; fruit, acidity, alcohol and tannic structure must be in balance for a wine to have long-term potential. When the acidity is too high, it can just as easily throw a wine out of balance, just as overripe fruit will make a wine too heavy and fall apart.

Good quality wines with the right components will soften and integrate as the years go by, but only wines that are originally well-balanced remain elegant and structured as they age. While high quality aged wines certainly come with a certain bragging status, they are not necessarily superior 15 years after their production. Age-worthy wines hold a different kind of appeal at both stages in their life cycle and not every palate will appreciate both.

While aged wines can indeed be enjoyed in restaurants, you can also mature your own wines at home. To set yourself up for successful at-home ageing, be sure to purchase from well-respected producers with a reputation for delivering quality age-worthy wines backed by a strong history of doing just that. Look for a producer with at least 10 years of history as we would only really see a wine as a true older vintage with pedigree if it can age up to a decade or more.

Choose red wines over white, especially those made in the Bordeaux tradition, at which South Africans excel. Although reds are a more reliable choice, there are plenty of awarded age-worthy wines in the white category. Glen Carlou’s Chardonnay is celebrated among experts, with Reyneke’s Biodynamic Chenin Blanc gaining popularity.

‘If you’re ageing your own wines, aim for a maximum of 5 to 10 years using no less than a case at a time, tasting a bottle each year to monitor (and enjoy) its progress,’ advises Ginette de Fleuriot, a Cape Wine Master and the Wine Education and Training Manager at leading distributor Vinimark. She recently hosted a Masterclass on older vintages as part of Vinimark’s annual, nationwide trade fair, the largest of its kind in the country.

‘You’ve also got to be careful about the conditions of your cellar. South African cellars are often too warm, even when they are underground,’ says de Fleuriot. ‘Make sure your space is cool, dark, and ventilated, without too much air flow. Vibrations and movement have an impact on a wine’s journey to maturity, so be sure to have a system in place that keeps you from having to shuffle your collection around.’

Before you start your at-home collection, familiarise yourself with the flavour profile of high quality vintages. Know what they taste like so you know what to expect. You can do this by going to tasting sessions at your local retailer. Inquire at Wine Concepts and Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar in Cape Town, and Great Domaines or Norman Goodfellows in Johannesburg for advice, recommendations, and information on where and when to attend.

Be prepared to spend money; it’s not just any wine that can be successfully stored to drink at a much later date. Awarded, high quality wines come with a price tag to match.

Vinimark’s Masterclass on older vintages included a selection of awarded, age-worthy wines with at least 10 years of history. There was a focus on reds and whites, casting a spotlight on the often forgotten potential of Chenin, Chardonnay and Sémillon to mature with elegance. It also included a strong presence of Bordeaux varieties from Shannon, Le Riche, and more, honouring the style’s ageing excellence.

Delayed gratification is integral to the production of older vintages, but enjoying them is instant. Let’s raise a glass to their formidable legacy.

To learn more, listen to Vinimark’s regular podcast on Spotify, or visit www.vinimark.co.za